QUESTION: I had a lot of trouble with rust on my runner beans at the end of last summer. Naturally I am growing them again this year. Is there anything I can do to prevent it?

ORACLE: The damp weather last summer made it a particularly bad one for bean rust. This fungal disease is specific to beans and it does tend to hang around on the surface of the soil – particularly if you left your dead beans on the plot well into winter like so many gardeners did because of the wet autumn. If you composted the remains then do not use the compost on the vegetable plot. Dig over the plot thoroughly burying the surface soil, and ideally grow your beans in a different location this year. Space the plants well and avoid overcrowding to allow good air circulation. Hopefully the weather this summer will be better – we are due a good one!

QUESTION: I love my hostas and, as we have lots of slugs and snails, I grow most of them in pots. Last year even some of these got devoured by the enemy. How can I prevent the same from happening this year?

ORACLE: Now that we have access to environmentally friendly slug pellets – the ones made by Growing Success – slugs and snails are more easily controlled in this situation. A few pellets around the emerging shoots and tucked under the leaves will deal with any hungry mollusc that makes its way into the pot. Often they invade by passing over the leaves from plant to plant or because the leaves touch walls or steps as the foliage expands. Keep a look out for this and perhaps sprinkle a few pellets around any dark, damp vegetation nearby where the slugs may lurk. Covering the compost in the pots with a layer of sharp grit also helps. The pellets are harmless to pets and wildlife; you only need to use them sparingly.

QUESTION: We have recently moved into a new house and are just tackling the garden. The soil here is clay, well trodden down during the construction of the house. What is the best way of improving the soil before we start planting?

ORACLE: Clay soils need the addition of larger mineral particles, in the form of coarse sand or grit, and plenty of organic matter. At this stage in the season I recommend that you use J. Arthur Bowers Extra Care Improver for Heavy Clay Soils. This is an excellent product that is easily incorporated into the surface of the soil and will boost the organic content improving the texture and workability. In the autumn sprinkle a generous amount of horticultural grit over the soil surface and cover this with a layer of the Extra Care soil improver. This will gradually work its way down into the ground over winter and do some of the digging work for you.

QUESTION: My garden is really quite shady close to the house. Naturally I want some colour in pots and containers. What are the best bedding plants to grow in these conditions?

ORACLE: The three best flowering bedding plants for shaded containers are begonias, impatiens and fuchsias. The secret of success is to keep things simple and just use one variety in a container. This has more impact and prevents you from adding other less shade tolerant plants just because you feel you ought to have a mixture. A simple trough of cheery bright busy lizzies makes a bold splash of colour. One good variegated fuchsia, such as the popular Fuchsia ‘Tom West’ (left), has an impact from the time you plant it until the weather really gets quite severe. Begonias seem to do well, even in a wet season. They were one of the few subjects that stayed looking good through last summer.

QUESTION: I have a very narrow border alongside a pathway. The bed cannot be widened. Have you any suggestions for dwarf shrubs that will be suitable here and will not outgrow the situation? The border is only about 60cm wide.

ORACLE: In a situation like this it is always the old favourites that get recommended: Sarcococca confusa, Euonymus fortunei, and various dwarf hebes would be obvious choices. Berberis thunbergii ‘Atropurpurea Nana’ is good with its compact habit and dark purple foliage that turns scarlet in autumn. The new Berberis thunbergii ‘Admiration’ (right) is even more attractive with deep wine red leaves delicately edged with gold; the autumn colour is outstanding. The small leaved Euonymus japonicus ‘Microphyllus Pulchellus’ is an excellent plant with deep green foliage delicately variegated with gold. It is very compact and a good alternative to box. If you want some height in the border then consider Ilex crenata ‘Fastigiata’. This has neat dark green leaves on upright stems and will fit into the smallest space.

QUESTION: I have ivy growing up a couple of trees in my garden. Some say it will kill the trees, some say it is harmless. Should I remove it? It seems a shame to do this because I quite like it. Also I do not really know how to go about it.

ORACLE: Ivy does not harm healthy, sound mature trees. It does not strangle them as is so often feared. When trees become unstable the weight, and wind resistance imposed by a heavy infestation of ivy may be responsible for uprooting them. Ivy on tree trunks is an important wildlife habitat, especially enjoyed by birds such as wrens.

If you do want to remove it then cut the ivy vine at the base and remove a piece of stem; if you just cut it through the wound may heal itself. Treat the cut root of the ivy with tree stump killer. The ivy on the tree will die, its leaves will fall and then, when dead, you can pull away what you can reach and leave the wind to do the rest. I am afraid it is rather a messy and lengthy process.