QUESTION: Can I have some suggestions please for evergreen plants to cover a north facing fence in a small town garden?

ORACLE: If you want climbing plants then you should consider hederas. Although some are rather put off by the vigour of some ivies there are plenty that are well-behaved. They look good throughout the year, and really cheer up north facing walls and fences.

The large-leaved Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’ has dark green gold splashed foliage. Hedera helix ‘Goldchild’ has small leaves of soft green edged with butter yellow.

Alternatively you could use Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ or ‘Emerald Gaiety’, both make excellent, short, selfclinging climbers with plentiful evergreen foliage. They work well when grown with hederas and other climbers because they give good cover on the lower part of a fence or wall.

Akebia quinata needs wires to twine on. It is a fastgrowing climber with beautiful composite mid-green leaves that remain through winter in sheltered locations. It produces pinkish or purple fragrant flowers in spring.

If you want an evergreen shrub instead of a climber consider any of the pyracanthas or the lovely Itea ilicifolia; it has green catkins and shining holly-like leaves.

QUESTION: I want to plant some bulbs in the grass underneath trees. What are the best ones to choose? Am I restricted to narcissi and daffodils, or are there others?

ORACLE: Dwarf narcissi lend themselves to naturalising in grass under trees. Plant them in groups or small drifts of one variety, leaving enough space between the clumps to get through with the mower if you intend to cut the grass. It is much easier to remove a square of turf, plant the bulbs and replace the turf rather than attempting to plant individually with a bulb planter.

However if you want something other than narcissi there are alternatives. Any of the specie crocus are effective. These are much better for naturalising, and more weather resistant than the large flowered crocus.

Camassia leichtlinii, a prairie native is a lovely bulb to plant in grass. It has spikes of sapphire blue flowers and grey-green spiky leaves. The honey garlic, Nectaroscordum siculum can also be grown in this way and is a good wildlife plant; bees love it.

Both nectaroscordum and camassia can be planted individually or in small groups in long grass to create a meadow effect. Crocus are best planted in drifts of around 20-30 bulbs; plant them in the same way as narcissi.

QUESTION: I have number of phormiums in pots. Last winter they were damaged by the frost and took all year to recover. How can I prevent the same thing from happening this winter?

ORACLE: Last winter certainly destroyed, or damaged, a lot of phormiums both in pots, and in the open ground. Those in pots are easier to protect. Where possible move them up against the walls of the house, underneath the eaves. This will help to keep wet off the plants as well as sheltering them from the effects of wind chill.

In severe weather gather the foliage up together and tie loosely; either with one of the leaves or with an old pair of tights, and slip a fleece plant protection sleeve over the plant. You can do the same in the open ground, and help to keep water from the base of the plant by mulching the soil surface with grit or gravel.

QUESTION: I never seem to have much success growing echinaceas and rudbeckias, although most say they are easy to grow. Where am I going wrong?

ORACLE: These prairie daisies seem to grow like weeds in some gardens and they sulk in others. Although they like an open sunny position and good drainage they do need enough moisture in the soil to thrive. On poor dry soils add plenty of organic matter when you plant them.

On heavy wet soils still add the organic matter but add grit as well to improve drainage. Echinaceas in particular do not cope with waterlogged winter soil. It is also worth mentioning that some of the newer, more exotic hybrid echinaceas are less robust and not as hardy as the species and the purple-flowered hybrids.

QUESTION: I have some large clumps of peonies in the garden. Is it best to lift and divide them now or wait until spring? If I do will they still flower? Some say that they dislike disturbance and take several years to recover.

ORACLE: Peonies are best lifted and divided in late winter. In an early season the plants start to move at the beginning of March, so do not leave it too late. Lift a clump and divide it using two digging or border forks plunged back to back into the clump where you want to make a division.

Prise the divisions apart by levering the forks against one another. When you replant do not replant too deeply. The crown of a plant should be no more than 2cm below the surface. If it is the plant may not bloom.

Add plenty of organic matter to the soil and some slow release fertiliser and you should have no problem dividing or moving peonies.

QUESTION: I never know if it is better to apply manure to my vegetable plot in autumn or wait until spring. Does it really make any difference?

ORACLE: It is much better to apply manure in autumn if you intend to grow those crops that dislike recently manured ground. These include onions, peas and carrots. If you apply manure in early spring do it early, dig it in thoroughly and then leave it a few weeks before sowing or planting.

Manure must always be well-rotted. If it is too fresh it will contain too much readily available nitrogen which can damage young plant roots. The safest option is always to get that manure on in autumn, particularly if the weather is good; otherwise you may be delayed by wet weather in spring.